by Zak Ahmad
The creative world of Manfred Thierry Mugler is vast and full of heavenly creations. Every decision he made was calculated and executed with an undeniable sense of elegance. He was admired for his tireless work ethic and unapologetic maximalism which made him so distinguishable. France was the root of Mugler’s creativity, he grew up in Strasbourg, a gorgeous city featuring a myriad of different architectural styles which likely played a role towards his unpredictable creative language. During 1997, Mugler created what is now considered to be some of his most timeless collections that exemplify his creative language. 1997 was a particularly interesting year for fashion because we saw the debut’s of Galliano at Dior and McQueen at Givenchy during that year, it was undoubtably one of the more exiting years of that decade. But this did not hold back Mugler from catching the public’s eye.
For his SS97 Haute Couture “Les Insects” collection, Mugler took inspiration from reptiles, insects, butterflies, and otherworldly effects. He aimed to create a world where he envisioned women adapting insect and animal-like characteristics in an alluring and powerful manner. He produced pieces such as a wonderful sheath gown decorated with wide butterfly wings made up of chicken feathers, as well as a beautiful strapless mermaid corset dress featuring embroidery and thousands of sequins which were hand-painted by Mr Pearl! He notably collaborated with leather designer Abel Villareal to create the coveted “Tire Dress”, which is comprised of rubber and leather. On the runway we saw carefully selected models who perfectly suited the character of their look, everything down to their body language aligned with the temperament of their attire. The music was equally as eccentric as the garments, which created arguably the exact vibe that Mugler’s surreal world evoked.
While his spring/summer collection was full of flawless pieces, many argue that his FW97 collection features his staple piece. Titled “Chimère”, this collection was effectively an equally flamboyant follow up on the “Les Insects” collection. He innovated previous concepts such as sparkly otherworldly effects and making his models into a creature. We saw pieces that took a glaring influence from things such as Russian and Greek history, with an added touch of Mugler’s imagination. The collection featured the iconic “La Chimère” gown which Mugler created in collaboration with Mr Pearl and Jean-Jacques Urcun. It is widely considered to be Mugler’s paragon and simultaneously is one of the most expensive couture creations of all time! The gown took reportedly six weeks of working 24/7 to create and was arguably one of the most intense experiences of the creators careers. The details on the gown are equally as remarkable as the final product; it features a long sheath gown fitted with an articulated corset, decorated with iridescent scales that are enhanced with rhinestones, crystals, feathers, and horsehairs. When I first saw this gown I interpreted it as a futuristic & glamorous mermaid. It turns out that it was inspired by the Greek Chimera, a large fire-breathing hybrid creature from Greek mythology. The creature was typically depicted as a lion with a goat peeking over its back, and the tail was often shown as a snake’s head. When you compare the look to interpretations of the creature, it becomes quite astonishing and impressive to ponder on how Mugler and his team even made this idea a reality.
I sincerely appreciate Mugler’s unpredictability and ostentatious creations. Alike with most his fanbase my jaw never fails to drop every time I watch one of his runway shows, albeit for the 10th time. Decorativeness is one thing and execution is another, and Mugler had always done a brilliant job of being ornamental with flawless execution. Look at his “Maschinenmensch” outfit for example, the eye-catching robotic outfit that can reinvent quite literally anyone who wears it. Maschinenmensch to me is just as unapologetically Mugler as La Chimère, it brings a wild vision to life by collaborating with the best people suited for the materials required, and working tirelessly just as Mugler always did. I have always found his work to be an interesting mix of classic Parisian couture and his own visions, though I am sure others would say differently.
Tragically passing in January 2022, Manfred Thierry Mugler left a phantasmagorical effect on the industry through his couture and perfumes. Each collection of his featured a different vision and feels like something out of a lucid dream. I cannot watch a Mugler runway show without feeling like I am in a different world surrounded by nothing but beauty and perfection. He is the perfect mix of expressive and elegant, and it should come to nobody’s surprise that his fans cannot stop talking about him!
Ayerhs Magazine 